it's friday morning just before 10am and i am just getting into DOCS. the chaffeur was busy so i had to find my own way--- which wasn't a problem.
i have so much to report, i don't even know where to begin.
it's funny because at the end of the day i have so much running through me i feel i might explode and then when i finally get a chance to sitdown here and share, i don't know where to begin or am even sure what all to share.
yesterday was interesting: it started out as something i THOUGHT was a celebration for international nurse's day, which turned into a lecture on the upcoming elections in june. i wouldn't so much call it a political rally--- no, more of something like an information session--- but then it didn't APPEAR that it was necessarily in support of the current political situation either. but then how would i know, i don't speak congolese swahili!!!! not to alarm anyone (mom and dad, it's totally fine) but there were some UN peacekeepers there. they are really cool--- i of course said "hello." we chatted for a bit. they were just there to say they support the people of congo in the most PEACEFUL process as possible. that's always nice to hear. this all took place in a church next to where i am working/ or doing whatever it is i am doing here.
i have some interviews set up for today, but then just because they are set for today doesn't mean they'll actually take place; a concept i am trying to familarize myself with again. i think i have started to become a bit type-A.
the biggest thing i have noticed about GOma is the massive destruction it has gone through due to the volcano, which three years later is STILL smoking everyday. there is a black dust in the air and everywhere you look is volcanic rock (solidified lava i suppose); the town has a cloud of smoke from the volcano which covers it most hours of the day. so trying to see devastation from anything due to the war is difficult because all you can see the what the volcano has done.
buildings are still standing, but what you notice is that the remainder of a door or a window from the first floor peeks underneath---- but what is ground level now is the second or third floor. it's true... it's nothing like rwanda. rwanda is cultivated, tidy and well kept---- here is just ruins. but then where i am staying is completely posh too. right next to the lake in the house of the director who runs the org i am working with. however, the directors are not here, so it's just me (and the staff) at the house. i know, i know... just ridiculous.
i thought i was about to be overcome by my thoughts yesterday and i can't really keep up with everything on paper at this point. this has been even more overwhelming than i think Togo was, but in a good way. i grabbed "hamlet" off the shelf last night and started reading that. seems to be helping with the overwhelming thoughts running through my head trying to figure everything out here--- and the vocab is extremely difficult for me to read, almost like ANOTHER language at this point, but seems to be a good release. it's no "harry potter" will be alright for now.
anyway... i won't be on here 'til next week at some point again. no worries; everything is fine here.
and i didn't realize 'til just now it was friday the 13th... niccceeee. :-)
Friday, May 13, 2005
Wednesday, May 11, 2005
"welcome to Congo"
as i was crossing the border this morning, struggling a little bit because i thought they wanted me to pay full price, when really they were giving me a deal on my visa (who does that???), a guy walked up to me, smiled and said "welcome to congo". i had to laugh.
i got a ride to DOCS and here i am, safe and sound. they greeted me as i walked through the compound doors and i headed straight to the office with my things. the woman i am working with (virginia) reminds me a great deal of "frida" the woman i worked with in Arusha last year. extremely kind and well natured.
it appears i am to be working with an orphanage in the next few days as well, which i am looking forward to. we'll see how all of that goes. anyway, they have internet here, but i don't want to spend all of my time using their internet. i suppose my entries will be short and not as in-depth, but nonetheless, i am completely safe and sound.
i will say this. while Togo still has my heart (after all, it was naturally my first "african love") being in West Africa has always felt more difficult than any of my time in East or Central africa. not sure why that is, but... it's just always seemed that way. however, that is in my very small experience of africa at this point. i have had so much time to reflect on my time in the peace corps and my friends from there this trip; these past few days.
anyway, i had better get. wasn't sure if the first entry went through, so i thought i would give it another try.
i got a ride to DOCS and here i am, safe and sound. they greeted me as i walked through the compound doors and i headed straight to the office with my things. the woman i am working with (virginia) reminds me a great deal of "frida" the woman i worked with in Arusha last year. extremely kind and well natured.
it appears i am to be working with an orphanage in the next few days as well, which i am looking forward to. we'll see how all of that goes. anyway, they have internet here, but i don't want to spend all of my time using their internet. i suppose my entries will be short and not as in-depth, but nonetheless, i am completely safe and sound.
i will say this. while Togo still has my heart (after all, it was naturally my first "african love") being in West Africa has always felt more difficult than any of my time in East or Central africa. not sure why that is, but... it's just always seemed that way. however, that is in my very small experience of africa at this point. i have had so much time to reflect on my time in the peace corps and my friends from there this trip; these past few days.
anyway, i had better get. wasn't sure if the first entry went through, so i thought i would give it another try.
greetings from Gisenyi/ Goma
alright so this will have to be fast and quick as i have to get going this morning.
there is so much to tell, i am not even sure where to start. the ride from Kigali to Gisenyi was the most beautiful of my life!!! i could take that ride a thousand times over and have my breath taken away every time!
spent yesterday in Goma yesterday. headed back there this morning. things are fine; no worries. i am a bit overwhelmed with questions, but that's to be expected. yesterday i spent the day with women suffering from fistula due to giving birth and being raped. DOCS (the org i am working with) had a new group of women come in, so i got to go through their "orientation" with them. these women come from the surrounding areas to hopefully seek medical assistance. they come in with their kids and their pots on their heads--- that way they can cook, of course--- wearing only the clothes on their backs. i attempted to greet them in swahili (but it's the swahili spoken here in DR Congo, not the same to Tanzania and Kenyan swahili) and they all laughed--- so of course i did as well. then a little boy toddled on over to me and handed me the piece of plastic he was playing with. he was nervous to touch my hand at first, but none like his counterparts, he reached out and touched it anyway. then he barried his little head in arm, his mom (who couldn't be older than 22) laughed and called me his mother and i picked him up and attempted speaking with him for a bit. at a total loss of course because he barely speaks swahili and i barely speak french. i got a smile out of him though.
alright... i have to go. i am safe and fine. more soon.
there is so much to tell, i am not even sure where to start. the ride from Kigali to Gisenyi was the most beautiful of my life!!! i could take that ride a thousand times over and have my breath taken away every time!
spent yesterday in Goma yesterday. headed back there this morning. things are fine; no worries. i am a bit overwhelmed with questions, but that's to be expected. yesterday i spent the day with women suffering from fistula due to giving birth and being raped. DOCS (the org i am working with) had a new group of women come in, so i got to go through their "orientation" with them. these women come from the surrounding areas to hopefully seek medical assistance. they come in with their kids and their pots on their heads--- that way they can cook, of course--- wearing only the clothes on their backs. i attempted to greet them in swahili (but it's the swahili spoken here in DR Congo, not the same to Tanzania and Kenyan swahili) and they all laughed--- so of course i did as well. then a little boy toddled on over to me and handed me the piece of plastic he was playing with. he was nervous to touch my hand at first, but none like his counterparts, he reached out and touched it anyway. then he barried his little head in arm, his mom (who couldn't be older than 22) laughed and called me his mother and i picked him up and attempted speaking with him for a bit. at a total loss of course because he barely speaks swahili and i barely speak french. i got a smile out of him though.
alright... i have to go. i am safe and fine. more soon.
Saturday, May 07, 2005
waiting...
(copied from the paper i duddled on this morning)
I think someone could write an entire dissertation on the time spent on "waiting" in Africa (possibly an entire Ph.D topic there). Last night I spent a good 60-90 minutes waiting on my friend Grace to show up, then another 2 hrs waiting on Jessica. This morning I spent a good 30 minutes waiting on the computer lab to open up and now that I am here, I am waiting for the "programme" to get up and running. I was told it will be another 2 hrs before it's working and was asked if I could return later. I asked if I could just wait here, as I have nowhere to go or be. "Pas du probleme"--- oh good.
I think my favorte "waiting" story in Africa has to be the one of my brother Kyle and I trying to catch a bush-taxi out of my village on a bright and early Saturday morning. Thank goodness for the saturday marche in Nymassilla or we would have never found a ride. Two mini-vans passed thru village on the main road that morning in a matter of 3 1/2-4hrs. The first had a little room on top of the van, but we chanced it and waited for the next one. When the door to the second one opened, there were around 24/25 people in there, chickens tied by their feet under the seats and any and all goods to be sold at the marche; that was inside. On top of the van were three live goats, large bags of coal, maize, etc--- all strapped down under a net to be sold at the marche. Kyle looked at me and said "there's no room," in which I replied" oh sure there is. Let's go," and in we piled.
I was stuck between two marche mama's who greeted me with a smile and an "allafia" which is "hello" in the local language of Kabye there. Kyle was stuck next to the sliding door which continued to fall-off, so he and the apprentice attempted to hold it on during the 50-60 minute rough, bumpy and dusty ride to the main road. Did I mention that the apprentice basically sat on Kyle's lap as well? Once we arrived to the main road, we stretched our legs, attempted to rid ourselves of the thick red dust/dirt we had accumulated during the 1st part of our journey, then jumped back into the van and headed south to Atakpame--- where working phone lines awaited us. Kyle wanted to call Lori and I gave Mom and Dad a ring.
Reflecting back on this story, I love it for numerous reasons. I love it because this was one of the many stories Kyle and I share from this two-week venture in Togo. While his visit was a little rough from time to time, I wouldn't change our time shared there for the world, not a minute of it. I love it because it now enables me to look at the situation from both ends--- Kyle's possible perspective and the average villager's possible perspective. While the mini-van situation might sound "out of this world" to possibly many of us, this is simply a way to get around for the villager traveling to and fro in many parts of Africa. Nothing more, nothing less. Heck at times the bush-taxi could be considerred the "posh" way to travel as it may be out of budget for many (I believe it cost us a total of just under $6 for the whole journey down to Atakpame). Many would have just walked the 21km int he scalding heat of the morning--- maybe biked it if that option was available. But to me, the bush-taxi had become the norm; squashed in like sardines, I didn't think twice about it. Just pulled out my book and went with it. That was just how it was. But for Kyle it was new, something different than what he was used to and it was good for me to remember that. Just as it is good for me to remember that it would be odd or different for any of my village friends to jump in a car and take a 5-hr trip with only three people in the vehicle.
It's just a difference in lifestyles--- in livelihoods--- which I think is good to remember from time to time. Here "en Afrique" you might have to wait longer than you wish, you might have to walk 21km for food, you will probably sweat A LOT, you'll get dirty, you may have only the essentials, you will hand wask your clothes (and if you wash like I do, they'll never be truly clean again), you may work from sun-up to sundown and not make an income but a living for yourself and family, you may have lost both parents to two separare wars only to wake-up and find yourself in another country--- not quite sure how you arrived there, but that is life for a number of people here. Does that make it any less of a livelihood than what we consider to be one back home in the West? I don't know, I am not the one with the answers--- you'd have to ask someone who lives here. I am just fortunate enough to see the differences in lifestyles--- in livelihoods--- both of which I have come to appreciate a great deal and love. There is so much to learn from both sides of the spectrum here, so much to be taken away. I guess it's just a matter of allowing yourself to be open to both--- not judging one as superior to the other, but rather maybe just different and that both of made up of positives and negatives. Like I said though, I don't have the answers--- I am still just learning.
And so I'll continue to wait and learn some more...
I think someone could write an entire dissertation on the time spent on "waiting" in Africa (possibly an entire Ph.D topic there). Last night I spent a good 60-90 minutes waiting on my friend Grace to show up, then another 2 hrs waiting on Jessica. This morning I spent a good 30 minutes waiting on the computer lab to open up and now that I am here, I am waiting for the "programme" to get up and running. I was told it will be another 2 hrs before it's working and was asked if I could return later. I asked if I could just wait here, as I have nowhere to go or be. "Pas du probleme"--- oh good.
I think my favorte "waiting" story in Africa has to be the one of my brother Kyle and I trying to catch a bush-taxi out of my village on a bright and early Saturday morning. Thank goodness for the saturday marche in Nymassilla or we would have never found a ride. Two mini-vans passed thru village on the main road that morning in a matter of 3 1/2-4hrs. The first had a little room on top of the van, but we chanced it and waited for the next one. When the door to the second one opened, there were around 24/25 people in there, chickens tied by their feet under the seats and any and all goods to be sold at the marche; that was inside. On top of the van were three live goats, large bags of coal, maize, etc--- all strapped down under a net to be sold at the marche. Kyle looked at me and said "there's no room," in which I replied" oh sure there is. Let's go," and in we piled.
I was stuck between two marche mama's who greeted me with a smile and an "allafia" which is "hello" in the local language of Kabye there. Kyle was stuck next to the sliding door which continued to fall-off, so he and the apprentice attempted to hold it on during the 50-60 minute rough, bumpy and dusty ride to the main road. Did I mention that the apprentice basically sat on Kyle's lap as well? Once we arrived to the main road, we stretched our legs, attempted to rid ourselves of the thick red dust/dirt we had accumulated during the 1st part of our journey, then jumped back into the van and headed south to Atakpame--- where working phone lines awaited us. Kyle wanted to call Lori and I gave Mom and Dad a ring.
Reflecting back on this story, I love it for numerous reasons. I love it because this was one of the many stories Kyle and I share from this two-week venture in Togo. While his visit was a little rough from time to time, I wouldn't change our time shared there for the world, not a minute of it. I love it because it now enables me to look at the situation from both ends--- Kyle's possible perspective and the average villager's possible perspective. While the mini-van situation might sound "out of this world" to possibly many of us, this is simply a way to get around for the villager traveling to and fro in many parts of Africa. Nothing more, nothing less. Heck at times the bush-taxi could be considerred the "posh" way to travel as it may be out of budget for many (I believe it cost us a total of just under $6 for the whole journey down to Atakpame). Many would have just walked the 21km int he scalding heat of the morning--- maybe biked it if that option was available. But to me, the bush-taxi had become the norm; squashed in like sardines, I didn't think twice about it. Just pulled out my book and went with it. That was just how it was. But for Kyle it was new, something different than what he was used to and it was good for me to remember that. Just as it is good for me to remember that it would be odd or different for any of my village friends to jump in a car and take a 5-hr trip with only three people in the vehicle.
It's just a difference in lifestyles--- in livelihoods--- which I think is good to remember from time to time. Here "en Afrique" you might have to wait longer than you wish, you might have to walk 21km for food, you will probably sweat A LOT, you'll get dirty, you may have only the essentials, you will hand wask your clothes (and if you wash like I do, they'll never be truly clean again), you may work from sun-up to sundown and not make an income but a living for yourself and family, you may have lost both parents to two separare wars only to wake-up and find yourself in another country--- not quite sure how you arrived there, but that is life for a number of people here. Does that make it any less of a livelihood than what we consider to be one back home in the West? I don't know, I am not the one with the answers--- you'd have to ask someone who lives here. I am just fortunate enough to see the differences in lifestyles--- in livelihoods--- both of which I have come to appreciate a great deal and love. There is so much to learn from both sides of the spectrum here, so much to be taken away. I guess it's just a matter of allowing yourself to be open to both--- not judging one as superior to the other, but rather maybe just different and that both of made up of positives and negatives. Like I said though, I don't have the answers--- I am still just learning.
And so I'll continue to wait and learn some more...
Friday, May 06, 2005
friday figuring
this is a second and final try. lost the last poste i just put up as the internet went down. quick things to respond to:
- my phone is up and working (or so i think), so m&d, give that a try over the weekend or anytime today. phone is on 24-7.
- there is a very long story to go with the whole bit of transferring pounds over here and basically the gist of the story is--- because they say "the bank of scotland" it's not going down. they wanted to give me a "deal" yesterday and would take my "scottish pounds" for 1/4 of what they are worth. while i cannot aruge with them like my dear old friend aims, who is AMAZING at this kind of thing, i dropped my head down on the guy's desk to show my frustration of the situation and got "ohhhh... pole, pole mama". since WHEN did i get old enough to be considered a "mama" here? needless to say, i am fine at the moment and just want out of kigali as it is a little expensive for me.
- weekend plans are to head to Gisenyi by sunday. will hopefully meet my contact at the border on monday and go from there. need to discuss a few things with my friend grace first. she's a young somali girl i met the other night who is just a WEALTH of information. amazing what you can learn from people over a simple drink.
- while i am trying not to dwell on the events from 11 years ago, it's hard to walk around this city and NOT think of it. everything is even familiar to some degree just from what i've read and then of course the movie "hotel rwanda."
- much to say, but too much to report on this simple blog. my friends adam and jessica have been great to hang with the past few days, but as we are all headed in seperate directions now, maybe i'll be able to clear my head a bit of the surroundings i find myself in.
not sure i'll have internet access in Gisenyi, so if i do not, no worries. i'll catch everyone up afterwards.
- my phone is up and working (or so i think), so m&d, give that a try over the weekend or anytime today. phone is on 24-7.
- there is a very long story to go with the whole bit of transferring pounds over here and basically the gist of the story is--- because they say "the bank of scotland" it's not going down. they wanted to give me a "deal" yesterday and would take my "scottish pounds" for 1/4 of what they are worth. while i cannot aruge with them like my dear old friend aims, who is AMAZING at this kind of thing, i dropped my head down on the guy's desk to show my frustration of the situation and got "ohhhh... pole, pole mama". since WHEN did i get old enough to be considered a "mama" here? needless to say, i am fine at the moment and just want out of kigali as it is a little expensive for me.
- weekend plans are to head to Gisenyi by sunday. will hopefully meet my contact at the border on monday and go from there. need to discuss a few things with my friend grace first. she's a young somali girl i met the other night who is just a WEALTH of information. amazing what you can learn from people over a simple drink.
- while i am trying not to dwell on the events from 11 years ago, it's hard to walk around this city and NOT think of it. everything is even familiar to some degree just from what i've read and then of course the movie "hotel rwanda."
- much to say, but too much to report on this simple blog. my friends adam and jessica have been great to hang with the past few days, but as we are all headed in seperate directions now, maybe i'll be able to clear my head a bit of the surroundings i find myself in.
not sure i'll have internet access in Gisenyi, so if i do not, no worries. i'll catch everyone up afterwards.
Wednesday, May 04, 2005
Arusha to Nairobi to Bujumbura to Kigali...
So I arrived in Kigali finally after what seemed to be a longer day than I had expected. That's alright though. Kind of a nice and quiet day really.
Left Arusha bright and early this morning and headed up to Nairobi where I was to catch a flight over to Kigali--- or so I thought. Made to Nairobi safely, no problem, waited my 4 hours for the next flight (which wasn't a bother--- Nairobi airport now has a "Java House" in the airport, so I was fine), and then jumped on the flight to Kigali. Only after take-off did I begin to think I was on the wrong flight. I wasn't though. I just wasn't aware we would be stopping in Bujumbura first.
Bujumbura, Burundi is like nothing I have ever seen in my life. The city sits on the edge of Lake Tangiyika (and I KNOW I didn't spell that right) and is literally covered by the vastness of the mountains. It felt like the mountains were towering all aorund us when we landed and that they could literally open up and swallow this small piece of flatness that was right in the middle of them. It was quite overwhelming just to sit there and look out.
So I have literally a thousand and one things going through me which I would like to put down on here, but I am limited for time and money at the moment. It appears that no one believes me that the currency that reads "Bank of Scotland" is really the british pound. If that's the case, this could get VERY INTERESTING!!!! (which i have to smile about) And, there is no ATM machine here. No worries, I have enough money, I'll just have to budget a little tighter than even I was ready for. I am sure I can work it out at a bank tomorrow.
I am at least going to find myself some food tonight. The place I am staying at is quaint, small, but with it's own shower--- so that is pretty nice. Even has warm water. Must run. TIme is up.
Left Arusha bright and early this morning and headed up to Nairobi where I was to catch a flight over to Kigali--- or so I thought. Made to Nairobi safely, no problem, waited my 4 hours for the next flight (which wasn't a bother--- Nairobi airport now has a "Java House" in the airport, so I was fine), and then jumped on the flight to Kigali. Only after take-off did I begin to think I was on the wrong flight. I wasn't though. I just wasn't aware we would be stopping in Bujumbura first.
Bujumbura, Burundi is like nothing I have ever seen in my life. The city sits on the edge of Lake Tangiyika (and I KNOW I didn't spell that right) and is literally covered by the vastness of the mountains. It felt like the mountains were towering all aorund us when we landed and that they could literally open up and swallow this small piece of flatness that was right in the middle of them. It was quite overwhelming just to sit there and look out.
So I have literally a thousand and one things going through me which I would like to put down on here, but I am limited for time and money at the moment. It appears that no one believes me that the currency that reads "Bank of Scotland" is really the british pound. If that's the case, this could get VERY INTERESTING!!!! (which i have to smile about) And, there is no ATM machine here. No worries, I have enough money, I'll just have to budget a little tighter than even I was ready for. I am sure I can work it out at a bank tomorrow.
I am at least going to find myself some food tonight. The place I am staying at is quaint, small, but with it's own shower--- so that is pretty nice. Even has warm water. Must run. TIme is up.
Tuesday, May 03, 2005
Well, things seem to be panning out for the best here. Tomorrow I take off for Kigali first thing in the morning. I know--- or have an idea--- as to where I am staying my first few nights (thanks, Bryce). I have a LOT to get done in Kigali and in a rather small amount of time at this point because.... I heard from one of my contacts in Goma yesterday and it appears they were wondering when to expect me. SO.... it appears things are back in line with their original plan. I will do my best to get my visa and then head over to Goma for two weeks--- assuming everything goes accordingly, which they never do. My plans are to stay in Gisenyi (the Rwandese border town-- 5K from Goma) at night as I know more about the accommodations there at the moment.
Not a whole lot to update on. I feel very relaxed and at ease after my first three weeks here. Being around family has definitely helped, but being around Jessica the past few days has helped more than I could have imagined. She is just a wealth of information when it comes to fieldwork and bouncing things off her has done me a ton of good.
As far as other news, I kind of have a line on a job as well. Nothing serious just yet, but I have been talking back and forth with the NGO-- the IRC (International Relief Committee)-- and they seem more than willing to work with me on this. Still too early to tell, but hopefully things will blossom with it. It will all work out for the best no matter what happens though, so I am not too worried about it.
Jess leaves late tonight and I leave first thing in the morning. I feel very ready to go (much better than I did two weeks ago) and will touch base when I am in Kigali. Ta-ta for now...
Not a whole lot to update on. I feel very relaxed and at ease after my first three weeks here. Being around family has definitely helped, but being around Jessica the past few days has helped more than I could have imagined. She is just a wealth of information when it comes to fieldwork and bouncing things off her has done me a ton of good.
As far as other news, I kind of have a line on a job as well. Nothing serious just yet, but I have been talking back and forth with the NGO-- the IRC (International Relief Committee)-- and they seem more than willing to work with me on this. Still too early to tell, but hopefully things will blossom with it. It will all work out for the best no matter what happens though, so I am not too worried about it.
Jess leaves late tonight and I leave first thing in the morning. I feel very ready to go (much better than I did two weeks ago) and will touch base when I am in Kigali. Ta-ta for now...
Thursday, April 28, 2005
a little tougher then expected
I started this blog a few days ago, then stopped because I wasn't really sure how to put things into words. Reading over these transcripts has been a little tougher than I expected. I would have imagined that the reading of case studies dealing with rape and sexual abuse in Congo would have prepared me for this. But maybe not. This isn't about me though. I am perfectly fine. It's not like any of this happened to me and here I am whining about it. I just continue to be surprised that I can't quite "gut" some of the things I am reading--- at this point, I would have thought I could read just about anything without having to get up and walk away in the middle of it.
Maybe it just has to do with my proximity to the situation--- or rather, the situations--- that makes it that more real. And to think I have a hard time reading this, while these people lived it--- it's amazing what a human being will do to survive.
Another lifetime conviction today at the Tribunal. The guy who was convicted is actually the guy who's case I have been reading about. Pretty brutal, but I don't want to get into it on here. There's more on www.irinnews.org if anyone is interested.
Other news... I was attacked by a mosquito the other night in bed. Literally ATTACKED MY FACE!!! Have four bites on one side, two under my chin and even two on my lips! Go figure. I couldn't ever find the stupid thing to kill it, so it survived the night as well.
Jessica gets in tomorrow (Shannon's sister). She's been doing some work in Zimbabwe for the past two weeks, is checking in with a project here for the weekend, and then leaves Tuesday night. I leave first thing Wednesday morning. So we'll actually have three Fleming-born women under one roof. One of these days I am bound and determined to get all Fleming born women under one roof--- there are only five of us, right? How HARD could it possibly be???
Things are still "iffy" whether or not I'll be headed to Goma, but Kigali is a for sure. Because of this situation, I am really trying to catch up on my background reading for Rwanda. I am in the right house for that, luckily; this house is full of things on the genocide and humanitarian affairs dealing with Rwanda.
I am actually excited and nervous to get there-- meaning Kigali. Have been brushing up on my French... but should have never stopped from two years ago. If I seem "missing in action" over the next few days, it could be simply that the internet is down, as it has been down all day. I'll try and post one more time before I leave next week for sure, and then once I am in Kigali postings will be very sporadic. But I'll do my best to keep things updated.
Maybe it just has to do with my proximity to the situation--- or rather, the situations--- that makes it that more real. And to think I have a hard time reading this, while these people lived it--- it's amazing what a human being will do to survive.
Another lifetime conviction today at the Tribunal. The guy who was convicted is actually the guy who's case I have been reading about. Pretty brutal, but I don't want to get into it on here. There's more on www.irinnews.org if anyone is interested.
Other news... I was attacked by a mosquito the other night in bed. Literally ATTACKED MY FACE!!! Have four bites on one side, two under my chin and even two on my lips! Go figure. I couldn't ever find the stupid thing to kill it, so it survived the night as well.
Jessica gets in tomorrow (Shannon's sister). She's been doing some work in Zimbabwe for the past two weeks, is checking in with a project here for the weekend, and then leaves Tuesday night. I leave first thing Wednesday morning. So we'll actually have three Fleming-born women under one roof. One of these days I am bound and determined to get all Fleming born women under one roof--- there are only five of us, right? How HARD could it possibly be???
Things are still "iffy" whether or not I'll be headed to Goma, but Kigali is a for sure. Because of this situation, I am really trying to catch up on my background reading for Rwanda. I am in the right house for that, luckily; this house is full of things on the genocide and humanitarian affairs dealing with Rwanda.
I am actually excited and nervous to get there-- meaning Kigali. Have been brushing up on my French... but should have never stopped from two years ago. If I seem "missing in action" over the next few days, it could be simply that the internet is down, as it has been down all day. I'll try and post one more time before I leave next week for sure, and then once I am in Kigali postings will be very sporadic. But I'll do my best to keep things updated.
Monday, April 25, 2005
work begins- interview #1
My interview with Chris Fry from UN ICTR (the Tribunal) here in Arusha went well. To be honest, I wasn't sure what to expect, so I came out ahead--- or so I felt and still feel. His expertice deals more with the women of Rwanda from the genocide, not the situation in Congo, but that's fine. I'll make it work; piece by piece.
He is going to get me about 40-50 testimonies from women who were raped during the genocide; those documents should make for some interesting reading. He first asked if I had read anything like that and when I told him what I had been reading dealing with the war in Congo, he said I would be fine. I imagine it's a great deal along the same lines; some testimonies are from 11 years ago and some are from December 2004.
We talked more about the underlying tension of Rwanda and the potential it has in eruptiong again, just not to the same degree. Rwanda has come a long way over the past 11 years, but much of it seems "top-layer surface" covering. However, I can't say a great deal just yet about Rwanda because I have a great deal of back ground reading there. The situations in Rwanda and Congo are similar and different all in the same breath. One interesting fact Chris did mention was when collecting the 50+ testimonies of these women back in September 2004, it was all done on the very, very DOWN LOW for these women. It seems they didn't want their friends, families or communities knowing they were talking to the UN or knowing they had been raped during the genocide. A bit early to say but that leads me to believe that any chance of reintegration process is out the window. Possibly a bit skeptical of me, but if these women are struggling with the truth in their communities 11 years after the fact, how on earth is there reintegration going on in Congo? However, I still need to read the transcripts from these testimonies and talk to this women's support org in Kigali-- IBUKA.
On a sidenote, Shan and I started messing around with little words in Kinyarwanda last night. Between my horrid French, knowing only a few words (therefore basically nonexistant) of Swahili, and now trying to pick up a few things in Kinyarwanda, I am starting to forget English. Basically, my 2 1/2 year old goddaughter could easily serve as my translator here in Tanzania. Too bad she doesn't speak Kiryanrwanda as well. As far as my French, I have no excuse... I DID live in Togo for a while. I am just a poor excuse for a linguist.
Last side note: my nephew turned the big ONE yesterday! Happy birthday to Aidan!!!
He is going to get me about 40-50 testimonies from women who were raped during the genocide; those documents should make for some interesting reading. He first asked if I had read anything like that and when I told him what I had been reading dealing with the war in Congo, he said I would be fine. I imagine it's a great deal along the same lines; some testimonies are from 11 years ago and some are from December 2004.
We talked more about the underlying tension of Rwanda and the potential it has in eruptiong again, just not to the same degree. Rwanda has come a long way over the past 11 years, but much of it seems "top-layer surface" covering. However, I can't say a great deal just yet about Rwanda because I have a great deal of back ground reading there. The situations in Rwanda and Congo are similar and different all in the same breath. One interesting fact Chris did mention was when collecting the 50+ testimonies of these women back in September 2004, it was all done on the very, very DOWN LOW for these women. It seems they didn't want their friends, families or communities knowing they were talking to the UN or knowing they had been raped during the genocide. A bit early to say but that leads me to believe that any chance of reintegration process is out the window. Possibly a bit skeptical of me, but if these women are struggling with the truth in their communities 11 years after the fact, how on earth is there reintegration going on in Congo? However, I still need to read the transcripts from these testimonies and talk to this women's support org in Kigali-- IBUKA.
On a sidenote, Shan and I started messing around with little words in Kinyarwanda last night. Between my horrid French, knowing only a few words (therefore basically nonexistant) of Swahili, and now trying to pick up a few things in Kinyarwanda, I am starting to forget English. Basically, my 2 1/2 year old goddaughter could easily serve as my translator here in Tanzania. Too bad she doesn't speak Kiryanrwanda as well. As far as my French, I have no excuse... I DID live in Togo for a while. I am just a poor excuse for a linguist.
Last side note: my nephew turned the big ONE yesterday! Happy birthday to Aidan!!!
Sunday, April 24, 2005
enjoyed a nice weekend of safari at ngorongoro crater. truth be told, i wore the mask and everything in the car. by the time we got there friday night i was sure i should not have gone, but should have stayed in bed. by saturday evening, i was definitely glad to have gone. the sun, the view, the animals, and being with the fam did me more good than sitting around here could have. got my mind off of other things for a while. in the car coming back today, i realized it all may have actually paid off--- my frame of mind feels ready to work.
still coughing quite a bit--- breaking stuff up in my chest--- but i have my voice back, can eat solid foods again, body aches are down, and all seems on the mend. i'll be in arusha this week and part of next, then head to kigali, rwanda, wednesday the 4th of may. got an email today i MIGHT even be able to meet up with one of my supervisors (from Edinburgh) in rwanda while she'll be doing a bit of research there herself later in may. no complaints there.
still coughing quite a bit--- breaking stuff up in my chest--- but i have my voice back, can eat solid foods again, body aches are down, and all seems on the mend. i'll be in arusha this week and part of next, then head to kigali, rwanda, wednesday the 4th of may. got an email today i MIGHT even be able to meet up with one of my supervisors (from Edinburgh) in rwanda while she'll be doing a bit of research there herself later in may. no complaints there.
Friday, April 22, 2005
basically it has come down to this: tonsillitis, a severe head and chest cold, however the good news is that i think my bacteria infection in my stomach has cleared up--- for the most part. so i am eating solid foods, just not a great deal because i can't get them down my throat. but i DID sleep for like 10 hours last night, which is a new one for me.
that research i am here to do... yeah, we'll start that on monday when i have my voice back. oh yeah, i can't really talk much either because my voice is basically gone and anytime i open my mouth i immediately start coughing--- and spreading my germs. nice.
in an attempt to boost morale, shannon wants me to join them on safari for the weekend. not much to it, just sitting in a car, but i don't want to get the fam sick. she says she'll make me wear a mask to protect all of them, but that the fresh air and just leaving the house would be good for me.
that research i am here to do... yeah, we'll start that on monday when i have my voice back. oh yeah, i can't really talk much either because my voice is basically gone and anytime i open my mouth i immediately start coughing--- and spreading my germs. nice.
in an attempt to boost morale, shannon wants me to join them on safari for the weekend. not much to it, just sitting in a car, but i don't want to get the fam sick. she says she'll make me wear a mask to protect all of them, but that the fresh air and just leaving the house would be good for me.
Wednesday, April 20, 2005
change in plans
well, i feel like i am making these entries about ME when really they should be about the research i have the opportunity to do here. however, since research is rather slow to start-up, i guess conversation about my research will be slow to start as well.
good news and bad news: the bad news is i am still sick. that's not really bad news just bothersome, for me in particular. stomach bacteria?? still there as far as i can tell (i don't think even cod liver oil could cure that one--- thanks though, halli). body aches: check. sore throat: check. occasional cough: check. massive headache: check. fever off and on: check. cool, everything is in check.
the good news is that i will be able to start my research soon, just in a different location than planned. i am going to stay here for a while and do some archival work from the UN Tribunal to begin with. since they deal with the rwandan genocide, they have quite a few experts on hand(including people working with the rape victims from the genocide who have appeared in court) AND have contacts in Kigali. but... as it is already towards the end of the week, i am going to start things at the beginning of the week with interviews at the Tribunal here because people are so scattered over the next two days. so i'll be extending my stay here 'til around may 3rd/4th, depending on what day i can actually get out. i believe the flight with precision air leaves on the 4th, so beggars can't be choosers. that leaves me three weeks to divide between kigali and goma.
not quite the time i was hoping for there, but i have a feeling it's still plenty of time. in the meantime, i'll just get done as much as i can from here: archival data collection, possibly a few interviews (with victims from the genocide who are here to take the stand in court), interview some of those who have worked with some of the victims, get some sound contacts through the Tribunal here for Kigali, etc. nonetheless, i am sure it will all work out. at this point, i am wondering if i am going to have too MUCH info. i'll gripe about that later though.
part of me wonders if i am taking the easy way out with this. sure, it's easier to "tweak" my topic to fit circumstances here. or am i being smart and just doing what i can with the situation? because to be honest, it DOES cause me a bit of nerves to think of going to kigali without sound contacts and then over to goma, where i haven't been able to get ahold of anyone for nearly two weeks. nerves are cool and doable, but am i letting them dictact my plans and actions here? after all of the preliminary work, i hope not.
there is still much to accomplish with 3 weeks between Kigali and Goma, which i plan to get done. i am just trying to roll with the punches here, i only hope i am rolling the right way. there i go talking about myself again...
basically, i just hope i do this research justice. feeling better would be nice as well, but i won't complain about losing a few of the guinness lbs which have managed to find their way on my body over the past 8 months.
good news and bad news: the bad news is i am still sick. that's not really bad news just bothersome, for me in particular. stomach bacteria?? still there as far as i can tell (i don't think even cod liver oil could cure that one--- thanks though, halli). body aches: check. sore throat: check. occasional cough: check. massive headache: check. fever off and on: check. cool, everything is in check.
the good news is that i will be able to start my research soon, just in a different location than planned. i am going to stay here for a while and do some archival work from the UN Tribunal to begin with. since they deal with the rwandan genocide, they have quite a few experts on hand(including people working with the rape victims from the genocide who have appeared in court) AND have contacts in Kigali. but... as it is already towards the end of the week, i am going to start things at the beginning of the week with interviews at the Tribunal here because people are so scattered over the next two days. so i'll be extending my stay here 'til around may 3rd/4th, depending on what day i can actually get out. i believe the flight with precision air leaves on the 4th, so beggars can't be choosers. that leaves me three weeks to divide between kigali and goma.
not quite the time i was hoping for there, but i have a feeling it's still plenty of time. in the meantime, i'll just get done as much as i can from here: archival data collection, possibly a few interviews (with victims from the genocide who are here to take the stand in court), interview some of those who have worked with some of the victims, get some sound contacts through the Tribunal here for Kigali, etc. nonetheless, i am sure it will all work out. at this point, i am wondering if i am going to have too MUCH info. i'll gripe about that later though.
part of me wonders if i am taking the easy way out with this. sure, it's easier to "tweak" my topic to fit circumstances here. or am i being smart and just doing what i can with the situation? because to be honest, it DOES cause me a bit of nerves to think of going to kigali without sound contacts and then over to goma, where i haven't been able to get ahold of anyone for nearly two weeks. nerves are cool and doable, but am i letting them dictact my plans and actions here? after all of the preliminary work, i hope not.
there is still much to accomplish with 3 weeks between Kigali and Goma, which i plan to get done. i am just trying to roll with the punches here, i only hope i am rolling the right way. there i go talking about myself again...
basically, i just hope i do this research justice. feeling better would be nice as well, but i won't complain about losing a few of the guinness lbs which have managed to find their way on my body over the past 8 months.
Tuesday, April 19, 2005
under the weather
i wasn't able to sleep much last night, but when i did awake this morning, i had a fever to accompany me. self diagnosis at this point: the flu, with the added bonus of the bacterica infection in my stomach i have going on. shan left some tylenol and theraflu out for me before heading off to work. ula keeps checking on her sick "auntie mags" and i can't do much of anything because i am just so wiped out. between my sipping on theraflu to help with my body aches, sore throat and headache to having my stomach goes nuts anytime anything goes down the hatch--- all in all, i would say this has turned out be to an interesting first few days. definitely not at all what i expected. oh well...
i blame myself for this; i left Edinburgh burning the candle at both ends and never allowed myself to catch up on any missed sleep. unless i am up and running 3-4 miles later this afternoon, i imagine i will extend my stay here past the weekend.
i blame myself for this; i left Edinburgh burning the candle at both ends and never allowed myself to catch up on any missed sleep. unless i am up and running 3-4 miles later this afternoon, i imagine i will extend my stay here past the weekend.
a bump in the road
one of many to come, i imagne. it has put things on hold for a few days, but that's fine and i have the time right now.
so the story is i woke up this morning about 4am with massive stomach pains. i won't give you the details of it all (because nothing really happened, i just laid there in pain), but it's been an all day thing and has kind of wiped me out. so shan and i discussed it this evening. we both agree that if in a day or two things don't clear up, i'll go to the doctor, but for now no solid food as that seems to only irritate it. just doing the juice and water thing, but that seems to irritate it too.
we both think i might have gotten some non-filtered water yesterday, which probably gave me some type of bacteria infection in my stomach or intestine. no biggie, i'll be fine.
plan #834 with this "research" is that if i am not feeling better by tomorrow night, i will extend my stay here in arusha 'til at least past the weekend to make sure everything is cleared up before taking off for kigali/ goma. shannon would like to see me stay here for my entire stay and just work from the Tribunal and while i appreciate the offer, i can use some info from there, but i still at least want to get to Kigali and discuss things here with people. Goma is still very much where i want to touch base with people and i will know more when i get to Kigali.
so... until i get things cleared up internally--- at least a little--- i will stay put and try and work from here. i am sure this is just a slight "bump in the road" and things will be kicking back into action in a few days. no worries. more later, i am sure...
***family members are not allowed to read this and worry. i am totally fine and i always get sick when i first arrive back in africa... and we all know this. this is just an update, that's all. at this point, i think it would be a bad omen if i DIDN'T get sick right off the bat. plus, i am with shan, chile and ula---- and am in great hands. so no worries.***
so the story is i woke up this morning about 4am with massive stomach pains. i won't give you the details of it all (because nothing really happened, i just laid there in pain), but it's been an all day thing and has kind of wiped me out. so shan and i discussed it this evening. we both agree that if in a day or two things don't clear up, i'll go to the doctor, but for now no solid food as that seems to only irritate it. just doing the juice and water thing, but that seems to irritate it too.
we both think i might have gotten some non-filtered water yesterday, which probably gave me some type of bacteria infection in my stomach or intestine. no biggie, i'll be fine.
plan #834 with this "research" is that if i am not feeling better by tomorrow night, i will extend my stay here in arusha 'til at least past the weekend to make sure everything is cleared up before taking off for kigali/ goma. shannon would like to see me stay here for my entire stay and just work from the Tribunal and while i appreciate the offer, i can use some info from there, but i still at least want to get to Kigali and discuss things here with people. Goma is still very much where i want to touch base with people and i will know more when i get to Kigali.
so... until i get things cleared up internally--- at least a little--- i will stay put and try and work from here. i am sure this is just a slight "bump in the road" and things will be kicking back into action in a few days. no worries. more later, i am sure...
***family members are not allowed to read this and worry. i am totally fine and i always get sick when i first arrive back in africa... and we all know this. this is just an update, that's all. at this point, i think it would be a bad omen if i DIDN'T get sick right off the bat. plus, i am with shan, chile and ula---- and am in great hands. so no worries.***
Monday, April 18, 2005
feeling people out
so there have been a few "UN'ers" to stop by the house today, whether this afternoon or for dinner this evening. friends of Chile and Shannon's. i was talking to one of the prosecutors here at the Tribunal, Don Webster--- great guy--- and he asked how long i was back for, what my plans were, so forth and so on. (i met mr. webster my last time through arusha). i explained that i was just "passing through" on my way to Kigali and then over to Goma. being a prosecutor for the Tribunal here dealing with the Rwandan Genocide, we started talking a bit about the issues in Congo. he got kind of quiet and then said "you know, i haven't been able to figure it all out in Congo. i've had to do some reading on it, but i haven't been able to figure it all out." i found that interesting coming from him, but to my surprise was able to shed a little light on the situation for him. it seems i actually MIGHT know something about the situation there--- or maybe i just think i do. (that was a joke, dad. i KNOW what's going on there.)
Don lived in Kigali for a few years working for the UN there, so was able to give me the in's and out's. he claims he feels safer there than Arusha, so that definitely brings it up in my books. i don't think i will have any problems there, but it's always nice to hear that from someone who lived there as well.
there is a Rwandese woman who lives right down the street here in Arusha who is working with rape victims from the Genocide whom Shannon thinks i need to visit with before going over. i think that is on the agenda for tomorrow night.
i sat down and starting picking the mind of another UN-er this afternoon when he dropped by the house to visit with Chile. different guy, but i know him from my previous visit, he asked what i was doing here, i explained. so we started talking about Congolese politics, which could get very interesting as they have an election coming up scheduled for June. i can't remember exactly what i asked him, but the answer i received in return was so off track. it was a good reminder that answers are not so easily found or given here and that many times you never get what you are looking for... but, i guess that could be anywhere, eh?
the mosquitos are out tonight and i already have a few bites. i had better find my way to bed...
Don lived in Kigali for a few years working for the UN there, so was able to give me the in's and out's. he claims he feels safer there than Arusha, so that definitely brings it up in my books. i don't think i will have any problems there, but it's always nice to hear that from someone who lived there as well.
there is a Rwandese woman who lives right down the street here in Arusha who is working with rape victims from the Genocide whom Shannon thinks i need to visit with before going over. i think that is on the agenda for tomorrow night.
i sat down and starting picking the mind of another UN-er this afternoon when he dropped by the house to visit with Chile. different guy, but i know him from my previous visit, he asked what i was doing here, i explained. so we started talking about Congolese politics, which could get very interesting as they have an election coming up scheduled for June. i can't remember exactly what i asked him, but the answer i received in return was so off track. it was a good reminder that answers are not so easily found or given here and that many times you never get what you are looking for... but, i guess that could be anywhere, eh?
the mosquitos are out tonight and i already have a few bites. i had better find my way to bed...
Sunday, April 17, 2005
15 April 2005
I arrived in Nairobi after what seemed a rather long flight from London to Amsterdam and then on down here. Right before landing here we were taken to Mombasa where we landed and were held on the runway for over an hour due to "weather". Not sure what the hold up was as it was clear enough to see Mt. Kilimanjaro, but nonetheless... I was so out of it, I didn't really care. We eventually made it to Nairobi and I was pleased as it had taken an extra two hours off my 6 1/2 hr. layover. As I stepped off the plane and even at 8am, I could feel the thickness and warmth in the morning air. You are NOT going to hear me complain about that, I promise. A bit of a nice change from good ol' Edinburgh.
I met some people in the airport trying to get to Malawi only to arrive from California (Newport Beach, actually) to Nairobi and find their flight had been cancelled. Welcome to Africa. I just smiled and kept them company 'til they got things figured out. They were from a church back home who is affiliated with World Vision and they had come to do 10 days of volunteer work. They had planned to accomplish more in their 10 days then I have in my 6 1/2 weeks. I wish them the best.
The craziness to this whole day is my flight schedule: from Nairobi to Kigali, 40 minutes later BACK to Nairobi, then Nairobi to Kilimanjaro and a car to Arusha. Two tickets which they wouldn't combine and said if I skipped any part of any connection, I would lose the entire flight. I was NOT happy about this, but did as I was told. The guys in Kigali though had a hard time with this. For the life of them they could not understand WHY I would want to come to Kigali for 40 minutes and then go back. I hadn't even seen the city yet!!!!
"Pourquoi?"
Well you see....
I did my best in French until finally true explanations had to come out in English. After talking to most of the airport officials, getting two phone numbers from guys that work at the airport (for upon my return of course), being able to retrieve my luggage, board the same exact plane BACK to Nairobi, the guys there told me they would see me in a week and help me more then. While it was quite a mess, I, at least, made some friends out of the whole insane process.
So back to Nairobi and then jumping on a little 18 seater (with only 12 of us on there) down to Kilimanjaro airport. It was a BEAUTIFUL and peaceful flight down. A perfect end to the madness of getting to my FIRST destination: Arusha, Tanzania. We flew over the Masai Highlands and while the clouds were out, we were still able to see everything below and beyond. Mt. Kilimanjaro, Mt. Kenya, etc. 55 minutes later we touched down at Kilimanjaro airport. With the driver arriving a few minutes later, I headed off to Shannon and Chile's for the next few days.
A bit of rest and recovery before heading back to Kigali and over to Goma, Congo.
I met some people in the airport trying to get to Malawi only to arrive from California (Newport Beach, actually) to Nairobi and find their flight had been cancelled. Welcome to Africa. I just smiled and kept them company 'til they got things figured out. They were from a church back home who is affiliated with World Vision and they had come to do 10 days of volunteer work. They had planned to accomplish more in their 10 days then I have in my 6 1/2 weeks. I wish them the best.
The craziness to this whole day is my flight schedule: from Nairobi to Kigali, 40 minutes later BACK to Nairobi, then Nairobi to Kilimanjaro and a car to Arusha. Two tickets which they wouldn't combine and said if I skipped any part of any connection, I would lose the entire flight. I was NOT happy about this, but did as I was told. The guys in Kigali though had a hard time with this. For the life of them they could not understand WHY I would want to come to Kigali for 40 minutes and then go back. I hadn't even seen the city yet!!!!
"Pourquoi?"
Well you see....
I did my best in French until finally true explanations had to come out in English. After talking to most of the airport officials, getting two phone numbers from guys that work at the airport (for upon my return of course), being able to retrieve my luggage, board the same exact plane BACK to Nairobi, the guys there told me they would see me in a week and help me more then. While it was quite a mess, I, at least, made some friends out of the whole insane process.
So back to Nairobi and then jumping on a little 18 seater (with only 12 of us on there) down to Kilimanjaro airport. It was a BEAUTIFUL and peaceful flight down. A perfect end to the madness of getting to my FIRST destination: Arusha, Tanzania. We flew over the Masai Highlands and while the clouds were out, we were still able to see everything below and beyond. Mt. Kilimanjaro, Mt. Kenya, etc. 55 minutes later we touched down at Kilimanjaro airport. With the driver arriving a few minutes later, I headed off to Shannon and Chile's for the next few days.
A bit of rest and recovery before heading back to Kigali and over to Goma, Congo.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)